Karolina Ropelewska-Perek

10 paź 202014 minut(y) czytania

Mountain gorillas encounter in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda.

One of females with baby from Mishaya family.

How to organize tracking on your own? DIY journey to the misty jungle of Bwindi.

The boat left the shore of Itambira Island on Lake Bunyoni. We spent here just one night in a small cottage with the roof made of grass with lake view accompanied with sceams of cranes. These were grey crowned cranes that were going to sleep on the nearby tree. The morning was comparably incredible. A delicate mist was floating over the surface of the lake and the sun was slowly appearing from beyond green hills surrounding the bay. The whole scene was followed by loud singing of small, colourful birds flying inside bushes in front of our terrace.

We arrived here a day before. We crossed the border with Rwanda in Cyanika and after a long ride we reached Kabale but was not over yet. The next leg of our journey was the ride to the port where a boat was waiting for us sent by Paradise Eco Hub. This morning I didn't even want to think about hiting the same road again by car. We were said at the reception that we can take a boat to Muko, to boat port. It costs 100.000 Shilings (around 30$), the price was comparable to the car ride and the cruise on the lake seemed to much more plesant option. Before we set off I contacted Yolande, the owner of camp in Rubuguri. She sent a driver that was waiting for us when we reached the shore after one hour long cruise on Bunyoni Lake.

A young boy packed our heavy backpacks to the trunk of his car and we got on the road. At first along tarmac road that was climbing up the hill all the time unveiling beautiful views on the lake which was somwhere down there with green slopes covered with patchwork created by tea shrubbery running steep down the hill. The landscape was changing into more mountanous, drenched in juice greenery with clouds scattered on the sky moving on the peaks of mountains. We were passing by villages, houses covered with rusty sheet, herds of long horned Ankole cows, sheeps and goats rushed by kids along the road that was twisting along steep slopes until we reached the river. Heavy rains attracted by Bwindi hills often result in flooding. It looked for us that this was the end of our ride and, as a matter of fact after more torrential rains crossing the river is possible only with 4WD car. Onesmus, our driver, got off the car, took a look and we moved on driving through choppy, brown water. After a while we were riding up the hill again admiring views on green valleys and pool of the river darkling far down there.

After 2 hours we reached Rubuguri Village. Small houses scattered across the valley shrouded in smoke from home fires and provisional brickworks moping around lazily. Karungi Camp is located somewhere in the middle of this cut off from outer world village, surrounded by mountains with vegetable plantations on their slopes. The crew of Karungi was already waiting for us. It turned out quite fast that we were the only guests. Maybe because of low season or maybe because of pandemic that was slowly taking over the world.

We took some rest in front of our small house called Regal Sunbird Cottage to which there was a path made of stones planted with shrubs showered with yellow flowers creating a sort of canteen for colourful birds that didn't care much about our presence. Children's singing could be heard from the school located on the other side of the village. Soon after our arrival the sky began to roar. The sounds of storm were getting closer until it seemed as if the sky was torn apart by thunders right over our heads. Huge drops of rain were hitting the roof made of sheet and finally the sounds of storm cuddled us to sleep that night.

We spent our next day peacefuly, getting to know neighbourhood, taking a walk around the village in a company of children asking constantly about sweets and money. I am aware that people here live in very humble way but I will never aprove giving money and sustain the belief in kids or grown up people that white skinned man is a rich man who will come here and would spread his money just like that. We prefer to support in a different way and you don't have to look for it somewhere far.

You can buy hand made products in Karungi made by HIV positive women and this is how they earn money for medication and visits to the doctor. There are plenty of locat artists but for us there was one special person who lives right next to Karungi - Michael. He has learned by himself to carve and now he teaches his younger collegues. You can buy his products in Karungi but also you can visit his workshop and see how masks, gorilla statues or magnets in a shape of gorilla's head are being created.

OUR EXPERIENCE OF MOUNTAIN GORILLA TRACKING

It was still dark when we got up at 6 am. The moon was lighting up the surroundings. After a fast breakfast we were ready to hit the road towards Rushaga gate. Gordy and his car were waiting for us already. The views on the way were taking breath away, valleys drenched in the mist lighted up by first rays of rising sun. It looked like a perfect day. And it was because it was not raining through all our trekking and this is already a big luck. We took a ride on a winding road which at the beginning was going down until we turned in a side road. At this point it turned out why it's worth to have 4WD car and be sure you will get to the gate on time. We were passing by small villages with huts made of mud and covered with corrugated sheets. All that shrouded in mist mixed with smoke hovering from houses. A new day was starting. I have been waiting for it for a very long time.

18 people showed up which were divided into 3 groups of 6 people, each for different gorilla family. We were suppose to visit Mishaya family consisting of 11 individuals including one silverback, head of the herd and 4 babies. We watched a performance of local group and we moved on altogether with trackers which set off first and also rangers for our safety and porters if anyone needed one.

The path was leading slightly up the hill, there was no mud because it was not raining at night. The views on vast valleys of green and volcanoes on the horizon. One of them was the one we climbed few days ago in Rwanda, in Volcanoes Park. The forest welcomed us with mist and one might have an impression as if were walking in the clouds. The rays of morning sun were breaking through dense canopies of trees, the air smelled wonderfully with wet soil.

After 1,5 hours we reached the point where we had to go down steep hill where gorillas were resting. Here all of our companions had problem with going down on a slippery clay this is why it's so important to choose your boots wisely. Gorillas chose a place which was not very accesible in dense shrubs and trackers with our guide had to make a way for us with matchetes.

At first we noticed one of babies. It didn't care at all with our presence. After a while we reached the dominant male. It was Tinfayo which means "I don't care" in local language. Silverback was sitting there peacefully eating leaves and gently tearing them off twigs. Then he turned his back on us and he kept eating and farting laudly :D

We kept walking further on branches cut with matchetes having an impression as if we were levitating in the air kept only by shrubs under our feet. The guide has also spotted a viper resting on a branch which we passed with a wide berth. Exactly the same thing gorillas had made a while before us moving further a bit to take a rest after their meal. Small gorrilas were playing joyfully, rolling on the ground and didn't care about us at all. A while later Tinfayo joined to females. He layed down on his back stretching his huge hands in the air. Only kids didn't have enough and were still playing hanging down from branches.

That one hour passed so fast. We started going back. After climbing up the steep slope where our companiones had problems again sliding down all the time in a mud, our guide decided to take a break for lunch. We took some rest, took more photos with our rangers and we kept walking along a green corridor of trees with views on green slopes of volcanos. Gorillas stayed behind in their forest. Two rangers stayed with them. They keep watching them although their only enemy is human.

In spite of all years that has passed and awarness that it's critically endangered species, still the vision of money is more important to some people than existance of these unique animals. Even this year in Bwindi a poacher was caught who killed one of gorills. You can't see them in any zoo because nobody succeded keeping moutain gorilla alive in captivity. Gorillas like Tinfayo belong to the mountains shrouded in the mist enfolding green valleys of this enchanted land.

PERMITS AND OTHER FORMALITIES YOU NEED BEFORE SETTING OFF ON YOUR JOURNEY TO BWINDI

I found Karungi Camp by chance a long time before our travel. I was looking for a way to organize gorilla trekking. Earlier I found 2 agencies which can arrange such trackings but I wanted to do it my way so badly. I wanted to stay in Bwindi longer, in a place I had been waiting for so long. Agencies were offering different prices and the lowest one I managed to find was 1000$ per person for 2 nights including permits. I was almost ready to chose on of agencies from Kampala when I found Karungi searching through the internet in the middle of the night. I wrote to them immidiately in spite of late hour. Camp was also offering help with permits for small, additional fee of 40 $ per person. I was not discouraged by that because getting those permits on your own when you are still in Europe is almost impossible. I was waiting for a long time for any reply from UWA (Ugandan Wildlife Authority) and I would be waiting until now :) I didn't receive any answer and at the same time I was aware that a small number of those permits is given for sale to individual travellers. Most of them is purchased by agencies. You have to also be careful on crooks who offer cheaper permits. Something like this DOES NOT EXIST, remember that !! The price is imposed by UWA and there is no way to do it cheaper. All you can obtain is lose you money. This is why I was thinking about it for a long time if it was worth to take this risk and organize it on my own. I was exchanging emails with Yolande for a long time before I made up my final decision, as it turned out - a really good one because I wouldn't change a thing. We made an agreemanet and Yolande sent me an invoice to pay in advance. The cost of permits and costs of picking them up from Kisoro because this is where the nearest office UWA is located which issues permits.It all lasted few days until the money reached bank account in Uganda and later few more days until our permits were ready. I'm so grateful for help, patience and making all this timetaking procedure more simple <3

Organizing this whole expedition to Bwindi (and also this whole journey to Africa) required some effort and ability of dealing with things in foreign country. Reaching Rubuguri is possible for reasonable price if you consider the disance and time of this ride from Kabale. Boat ride and a ride on a car costs around 54 $ (200.000 UGX) one way. The way back on a 4WD car with Gordy was for 250.000 UGX to Kabale. It was concious decision and the fastest option of getting to the city where we had to catch the bus and hit a long road to Queen Elisabeth NP. On that day, after heavy rain it would be impossible to cross the river on a regular car so you have to expect higher costs when you choose a place a bit cut off from the world.

There are few cottages to chose from in Karungi. Regal Sunbird was the one we chose. The cost for the night with breakfast is 60$. The price is per whole cottage, not per person which is important if you compare it with prices offered by agencies or other pricy lodges which are plenty of around. Simultanously you can be sure that Karungi is not accepting organized groups because they prefer individual travelers so you can count on silence, serenity and also you have an opportunity to spot chameleons :)

Permit is a permission for gorilla encouter where you will spend exactly one hour and at the time of our trip costed 600 $ (since June of 2020 the price was suppose to rise to 700 $). You have to remember that in peak season the number of 152 permits per day finds enthusiasts a long time before the date of trekking. Kids must have at least 15 years old to get permission. Permits are issued on specific day and you can't change it later so you have to make a good plan for you journey. You have to take under consideration that in peak season which is June, July and August and also December, January and February, it can be impossible of getting permit on the next day although it happens when someone can't get there on time. In other months there are less tourists, prices are a bit lower but there might be more rain which causes problems in getting to Rubuguri or during trekking. Even if you come in high season, when it's not rainy season, you have to be aware that it might rain anyway. This are mountains, nature and sunny weather is never guaranteed. There is one more type of permits - encounter with one of 3 gorilla families which lasts 4 hours and costs 1500 $. It's called habituation permit.

Tracking should not be any phisical challenge to anyone although it's obvious that being fit won't make any harm, rather will help you. In Bwindi it usually takes place at the altitude of 1400-2000 m asl and in Virunga, on Congo side it's around 3000 m. Rangers usually allocate people to groups in a way so the weaker people go to the gorilla family which is near. At least this is what Bradt guidebook says while in practice I have no idea how they do it because in our group we were the youngest altogether with people around 70. The older couple was walking at the head of our group and we were adjusting to their pace, all 6 of us. It was not ahrd at all for us and walking slow at the very end of group we had plenty of time to take photos :) You have to walk to the place of meeting gorillas, not always on easy terrain. It may last from 15 minutes to 6 hours one way depending on where the family currently stays. Trackings in Bwindi start from 4 different spots: Buhoma (3 gorilla families), Ruhija (2 families), Rushaga (5 families) and Nkuringo (1). The stay in Karungi makes possibility of tracking from Rushaga as well as from Nkuringo gate. You have to take into account additional costs of transportation to park gate. There is also possible to get there with boda boda, motorbike ride for 70.000 UGX. The price of getting to Rushaga gate with 4WD car return ride (Gordy, the guy who runs Karungi has this type of car) - 150.000 UGX. It's a bit further to Nkuringo so the price is a bit higher - 170.000 UGX.

MOUNTAIN GORILLAS OF BWINDI

There are 11 gorilla families in Bwindi and depending on the place of stay of particular family on previous day and to which of those families we are allocated, from that gate the tracking starts. Before it happens all participants are suppose to appear at 8.00 am. After short briefing people are divided into groups with guide. It is possible to get a porter who will carry your backpack and for him/her sometimes it's the only possibility to earn money.

Meeting with mountain gorillas is possible not only in Bwindi but also in Mgahinga but there is only one family of habituated gorillas. All habituated families are guarded at all times and only with those gorillas it's possible to meet. We have almost 100% that on that specific day our guide will lead us to the family of gorillas. But how they were habituated one might wonder?

In Uganda it all started from one family of gorillas in 1991 and the first tracking for tourists arrived here in 1993. Gorillas usually avoid people and taming them with our presence takes years. The first person who succeded to habituate gorillas was Dian Fossey, famous researcher who conducted her research in Congo and next in Rwanda. They are called gentle giants and this is how they behave if they don't feel threatened. Female gorillas reach maturity at the age of 8 (similarly to orangutans). It's a moment when they often change families, switch from one group to another. When they get pregnant usually they stay in the group, with chosen male, until her death and help the male to keep the status of a leader. Every male who takes over the group usually kills infants, kids of his ancesor which leads females to oestrus more quickly and as a result, next generation is being born with genes of a new leader. One female during her usually rises 6 kids.

Gorillas' diet mainly consists of bamboo shoots but also stems, leaves and shoots of over 140 other plants. Around 2% of diet comes from insects and other invertebrates. A treat and main sourse of proteins are ants. Gorillas usually don't move much during one day. They stay in a range of 1km unless some stressful incident occurs like meeting othr group of gorillas but it rarely happens. They spend nights on the trees (another similarity to orangutans) building everytime a new nest.

You have to remember while setting off for gorilla encounter that we are the one who enter to their home and we are guests there. Gorilla will rather back out than attack unless provoked, feel in danger which is normal reaction of every single wild animal. You should never approach, making sudden movements, looking straight in their eyes or speak loudly. This is jungle not a theme park and it's worth to remember it at all times. I mention about it because few days later I was a witness when chattering lady from across the ocean was telling to our colegue her impression from Africa and at that time we were trying to get closer to chimpanzees who apparently didn't like that noise and were going further. These are alive creatures and behave with respect and sensivity.

If it's about gorilla trekking we go with a guide but also trackers who go first and rangers. There can be not more than 8 people in a group which should strictlyobey their guide. We should not leave behind any rubish or food leftovers. You should not set off for gorilla encounter if you ahve symptoms of cold. This is a huge danger for these beautiful creatures. In the moment when we reach the point of meeting gorillas everybody usually give back walking sticks. It's not allowed to eat or smoke in their presence. The use of flash is forbidden. You will spend exactly one hour with gorillas. It can be really wonderful experience when everybody follow the rules and take into account wellbeing of animals. Remember - we get in to their home and let's treat this fact as a huge privilage and not as something we simply deserve as humans. We owe them respect, care and admiration because here they are, gorillas whose number currently reaches 1000 only. It's comforting that their number is still rising and this year a record number of newly born babies was counted. Also the Mishaya family got bigger and we had a chance to see one, few weeks old gorilla when we were there.

It is hard to believe that the moment I have been waiting for a long time passed by so fast. The gorilla encounter, even the way leading to get there is unforgettable experience. Walking along the path on the slopes of a mountain covered with trees, in a morning mist that enfolds the Impenetrable Forest of bwindi, admiring views on valleys that the trees were unveiling in front of us every once in a while. Right after that the only thing we could see were tangled branches. We could hear birds singing but it was hard to spot them in this thicket. I felt stunned with this place that I have been picturing in my imagination for years. Reality turned out to be even more beautiful from these pictures in my head. The encounter with gentle giants, possibility of seeing them eating, resting, caring about eachother was incredible experience, for me priceless one in spite of that I had to do a lot, overcome many obstacles to come here and I know it was so worth it. I'm sure I will be back to this mountains, maybe this time on the other side of the slope of Impenetrable Forest. These 60 minutes spent in a company of gorillas from Bwindi was my dream for many years. And it still remains one <3